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From The Motor Pool |
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Home | Membership | Our Staff | Event Details | Classifieds | Links | Past Events | Goodies Store | Calendar | Driving Tips |
An Introduction from our Technical Editor, Dean Lewellen
I am a 25 year member of PCA. I also belong to the BMW CCA, the Alfa Romeo Owner's Club, and, the Classic Thunderbird Club International. I have served as newsletter editor, treasurer, vice-president and president of a PCA region. I have owned seven Porsches, including four 911's (73S, 75 Carrera, 76S, 89 Carrera), a 914-2.0, and a 944. We currently own a 1995 993 Coupe. I am a mechanical engineer, retired, after 40+ years with Boeing. I am correctly accused of being a certified car nut by family and friends, do a lot of owner maintenance and preservation (often stymied now by the complex electronics on board), and am now able to spend the time I want pouring over automobile data found on the Internet and in publications. I would like to devote this space to subjects you, the membership, want to know more about. I have a few ideas in the backlog bank, but please make your subjects of interest known. I look forward to this task with enthusiasm and hope to talk with each of you in the near future.
WHAT'S COMING FROM PORSCHE--NEWS, RUMORS AND DREAMS
This month's subject is based upon some factual knowledge, some well traveled rumors, and simply, some collected thoughts and dreams of what may be coming down the production lines at Porsche in the near and not too distant future in this first decade of the new millennium. I recently attended a Heritage Club luncheon in Seattle with some old Pacific Northwest Region members and friends (read graybeards) where we reflected on the past thirty years or so of great Porsches we have had or may still own and projected on where the twin paths of the 911 and the Cayenne development programs may take us as the future unfolds in Stuttgart. My story goes together something like this.
AUTO MOTOR UND SPORT, the premier European automobile enthusiast's guidepost recently did a robust article on Porsche where the company notables interviewed supplied a vision of the Porsche production line of the future. One of the visionary, emerging products described was a two-door Kombi-Coupe similar to the BMW M3 powered by a front mounted V8 engine and perhaps produced on a new production line at Leipzig. Interested? The second vision described a Cayenne pickup truck in both two and four door trim for the US market. Now are you interested?
On the more definite side of the new product ledger, here are some of the exciting vehicles just around the corner. In the fall (Herbst), the Cayenne hits the market as a 2003 model. The first version will be the Cayenne-S Tiptronic powered by the Porsche 4.5 liter, 350 hp V8 engine. The Cayenne-S will be followed in the fourth quarter of 2002 by the Cayenne-Turbo Tiptronic with twin turbos producing 450 hp. It is projected that this Cayenne-Turbo version will outperform the base Model 996. In 2004, the poor man's VW model of the Cayenne will go on sale with a 3.2 liter version of the six-cylinder narrow-angle Volkswagen VR6 engine. In early 2003, the new 911 (Model 996) Turbo Cabriolet, GT-3, and Carrera GT will begin their production cycles. The Turbo Cab will be powered by a 414 hp twin turbocharged engine and there will also be a Carrera 4S "Turbo-look" Cabriolet version powered by the current 3.6 liter, 320 hp 996 engine. Despite Porsche Cars of North America's statements and claims, we probably won't see any of the new GT-3s with US license plates very soon, if ever. And, the Carrera GT will be seen or heard about only as often as we see or hear about folks willing and able to spend $350,000. plus for a set of wheels. Don't look for a road test of the Carrera GT in AUTOWEEK or ROAD & TRACK. In the fall (Herbst) of 2003, another new 911 Coupe (still a Model 996) with an engine upgrade to 3.8 liters will begin production together with a V6 Turbo-deisel powered version of the Cayenne which may be just about perfect for towing your family's travel trailer up Pikes Peak. Also, in late 2003, the Boxster will receive a face lift and another engine upgrade to a 3.3 liter, 275 hp version of the flat, six cylinder engine.
On the more speculative side, the big news is the Model 997 or "next, next generation" 911. The 997 will be a brand new car with the current (then 3.8 liter) engine in the same rear location. The car will be an all new design with a sequential manual and automatic transmission. There are thirteen variant versions of this new car in the planning cycle, beginning with the 2005 Carrera Coupe in the fall of 2004 followed by new introductions every six months with Cabriolets, Targas, Turbos, and GTs rolling out twice a year through 2007. Most of the Coupe, Cabriolet and Targa models will be paired with an "S" version which will provide more performance than their basic model produces. The niche "S" version will not apply to the Turbo or GT cars which will already be high performance machines. One rumor is that the "S" models will have some form of the Porsche V8 from the Cayenne shoehorned into the rear of the Model 997's chassis. These V8 powered "S" cars would be aimed at the comfort-oriented driver looking for more speed, greater stability and a high level of on-board conveniences in his or her travels. Now, I'm dreaming! Also, in the fall of 2004, the new Boxster II will begin production which will include the long rumored Boxster Coupe in the model line up. As is the case today, the Model 997 and the Boxster II will share many components, but the 997 will also share some components with the exotic V10 powered Carerra GT. Now, I'm really dreaming!
From what I'm told, and, from past experiences, you should believe about one-half to two-thirds of this story. The Cayenne information and time line is probably true, the Model 997 stuff is mostly true, and we can simply dream and schmooze about the rest.
Our members are
participating in a number of events/activities each year which involve driving
large distances with the final destination many miles from our garages in the
Phoenix area. We take part in "Sunday Drives," B.E.A.T., Tours to Alpine,
Bisbee, Grand Canyon, Monterey, and Southern California. Some of us venture to
PCA Parades and Zone 8 events. Years ago, when my family began making some of
these long distance treks in our Porsche, I was always paranoid about what
mechanical catastrophes were lurking along the way, and what tools, spare parts
and trouble shooting items should be included in the limited space available
after or before
passengers, luggage and other necessities. In the early 70's, some paranoia was
justified when traveling far in our air-cooled machinery!
Allan Caldwell, PANORAMA Technical Editor, and, Pacific Northwest Region
Technical Editor assembled a travel equipment list several years ago which he
has updated several times as the technology of our Porsches advances. Another
source of an equipment list for automobile travel is the AARP 55 Alive/Mature
Driving course workbook. Following is a summary of the items I have included in
a small duffel bag carried on every long distance trip we take in our Porsche
and our other vehicles as well.
Tire Gauge: The Ford/Firestone debates have certainly made it crystal clear to
everyone how important proper tire pressure is for each tire on every vehicle,
as if we ever had any doubts. A $25. to $30. digital tire gauge should be a
basic item in every Porsche road travel bag. An analog tire gauge was part of
the factory tool kit in Porsches prior to the 90's. I'm not sure that item is
still included. Check your "cold" tire pressure per your owner's manual each
morning as part of the startup ritual.
Road Flares: Two or three emergency roadside flares should be included in your
travel bag which can be utilized to alert oncoming motorists of your Porsche
should you become disabled on the road. Follow the directions on the flare
packaging for proper usage.
Tow Rope/Strap: A nylon strap with a hook on each end is a good item to include
for the purpose of towing your Porsche to safe harbor if it becomes disabled on
the road. Long distance towing is not recommended.
Wood Block: A 6 or 8 inch piece of 1 x 6 makes a good base for your Porsche car
jack if you need to raise your car while off the roadway.
Dropcloth: A six foot square drop cloth is a great clothes saving device if you
ever have to change a tire or get under your Porsche in inclement weather.
Trash Bag: A regular trash bag or two can come in handy for several emergencies
including storage for the removed full sized tire when you must mount the
inflatable spare. Remember the normal size road wheel will not fit into the
recess which held the blowup spare wheel/tire. Some clever/careful repackaging
will be necessary and a dirty tire in a baggie is a lot easier to deal with.
Fan/AC Belt: An owner should not drive any air cooled Porsche with the fan belt
missing. It is critical to engine cooling and proper electrical system
performance. In many cases, the failure of the air conditioning belt (which is
not uncommon) will take out the fan belt as well. A spare fan belt is included
in the tool kit of most if not all air cooled Porsches, but the A/C belt should
be added. I don't think Boxster and 996 owners are going to have any problems
with the serpentine belt on their Porsches, nor would they attempt a change in
the unlikely event of a belt failure. A call to Porsche Roadside Assistance is
the answer.
Masking Tape: A roll of 2 inch masking tape is a useful solution for many
roadside problems and emergencies both inside and outside your Porsche. Carry a
roll and write down all the uses you find.
Flashlight: A maglite aluminum case flashlight is another multiple use addition
to your travel bag. Be sure you check the batteries occasionally, so you won't
be left in the dark.
Glass Cleaner: Wurth Glass Cleaner in a 19oz. spray can is the best glass
cleaner available to any Porsche owner. It is available from Performance
Products/Automotion (you have to ask for it) for about $4.00 per can. It is a
great product and smells nice as well. You can also carry your own favorite
window cleaning product. I like to clean the windshield/front surfaces at the
end of each driving day as the accumulation is much easier to get off then as
opposed to after an overnight.
Paper Towels: A roll of paper towels are invaluable in keeping your Porsche
presentable while traveling.
Torque Wrench/Soft Socket: A proper torque wrench with a protective socket will
allow an owner to remove and install Porsche wheels without damage, fuss or
bruised knuckles. Use the torque setting specified in your owner's manual for
installing wheels.
Tool Roll: A small tool roll with items not included in your Porsche tool kit
can be useful in emergencies. This kit should contain an adjustable (Crescent)
wrench, applicable fuses, ice scraper, halon fire extinguisher, small hammer,
spark plug socket, channel-lock pliers, a small volt-ohm meter and any other
owner's favorite tools.
Towels/ShopRags: An assortment of shop rags and a couple of towels will come in
handy for many cleanups and provide cushioning for the above items in your
travel bag.
Spare Parts: Porsche problems on the road are most often fuel related. I have
always carried a spare fuel filter in every Porsche we have owned, which has
proven to be a wise investment and solution to a poor running engine.
These are the items I found in the duffel we carry in our 993. Each owner will
add his/her own favorites and tailor their items to the needs of their
particular model Porsche. I hope this list is useful to our members and makes
our travels to events in our Porsches less stressful.
The Porsche 911 body shape is the visual icon of the sports car that has become permanently etched in our minds since its debut in September 1963 at the 41st International Automobile Show in Frankfurt am Main, Germany. Forty years of continuous product development and engineering refinement of the original configuration, defined in late 1961, have made the 911 immortal in the automobile world. This article covers the chronology of the car’s evolution and gives some details about individual models/series introduced along the way. The references at the end of the article would provide the reader with much more specific and exacting detail on the 911’s history than can be condensed into this space. All are excellent sources and great reads as well.
At the Frankfurt auto show, Porsche designated the new car as the Model 901. The development of the Model 901 continued until the car was shown again in October 1964 at the Paris Auto Salon where Porsche announced that deliveries of the first production cars were imminent. This got the attention of Peugeot, who, since 1929 had been giving its automobiles three digit designations with a zero in the middle and had an exclusive French trademark registered. Peugeot complained, and, as a quick, backroom solution, Porsche changed the middle digit from a “0” to a “1”, and thus, the Porsche Model 911 was born. The rest of the story is history.
Before production started in November 1964, a total of thirteen 911 prototypes were built for display, testing and development. No two examples were alike. They underwent continuous modification and differed from the production cars in many details. Commonality that exists with today’s Model 996 is that they had a horizontally opposed six-cylinder engine mounted aft of the rear wheels, a 2+2 seating arrangement, and, a side profile that is unmistakable down to the rear quarter windows.
The first production 911 was model year 1965. The engine was 1991 cc’s developing 130 HP @ 6100 rpm. This engine had a dry sump lubrication system and was fed fuel through six Solex carburetors. These cars had a fully synchromesh 5-speed transmission, torsion bar suspension and the trunk at the front of the car. External identifying characteristics of the so-called “Series Zero” cars are gold-plated 911 script emblem on the rear deck lid, chrome plated bumper guards without rubber inserts, and optional rocker panel deco strips.
Model year 1966 marked the introduction of the Model 912 which utilized the four-cylinder engine of the Model 356SC. (Sue Herrman has an immaculate one-family owned example of this car).
1967 marked the introduction of Butzi Porsche’s “Targa” open-air model, which is an identifiable worldwide trademark Porsche name and was intended to recall Porsche racing successes in Sicily in the “Targa Florio” road race. An increase in engine power to 160 HP marked the introduction of the first “S” model in the lineup. The forged “Fuchs” aluminum alloy wheels were introduced in a width of 4 1/2 inches for the 911S.
The first emission rules of the United States became effective in 1968, which meant we didn’t get a 911S with 160 HP, but instead, got a 911L with the 130 HP engine from earlier years. This was the first year of several to follow where the differences between Porsches exported to the USA and those sent to the rest of the world was dramatic. The “Sportomatic” semi-automatic transmission was introduced along with the 911T (Touring), which was powered by a reduced output 110 HP engine. (ugh)!
1969 (B-Series) was a significant year for the 911. There were extensive body changes: longer wheelbase (2 inches), altered fenders and revised lighting. Also new were fuel injected engines to cope with US emission rules for the new Model 911E and reintroduced 911S. The S engine now produced 170 HP. The E and S engines were equipped with Bosch mechanical fuel injection systems. Other features such as twin batteries (one in each forward wheel well), a real glass rear window in the Targa, and 6-inch wide Fuchs wheels on the 911S were part of the lineup.
1970 (C-Series) marked the end of the Model 912 and an increase in the 911’s engine displacement to 2195 cc’s (2.2 liters). 911S power was now 180 HP. The Model 914 was introduced to provide an entry level Porsche, but that’s another story.
The 911 was changed very little in 1971, and, in 1972, the displacement was increased to 2.4 liters producing 190 HP in the 911S. The shift pattern for the transmission was changed to what we are familiar with today with first gear forward and to the left instead of back and to the left. This new transmission was known as the type 915 and was designed to handle the power increases current and planned.
The 1973 911 (F-Series) marked aerodynamic improvements in a way of an air dam on the 911, and, the “duck tail” spoiler on the newly introduced 911 Carrera RS. The 911T received the K-Jetronic fuel injection system in mid-year. With the US Government imposed rules against tetraethyl lead as an anti-knock additive for gasoline, the 2.4-liter engines of 1972 and 1973 were designed to run on regular grade fuels.
1974 (G-Series) was a year of extensive body changes, which were required to meet US bumper regulations for impact resistance and height from the ground. Gone from the lineup was the 911T and the K-Jetronic injection system was fitted to all engines, which saw another displacement increase to 2.7 liters. A single battery replaced the dual batteries in the front trunk. A “Plain Jane” 911 with a 150 HP engine and a 911S with a 175 HP engine completed US choices. The 911 Carrera model with a 210 HP mechanical fuel-injected engine was available overseas. A Carrera trim 911 with the 175 HP engine was available in the US in small numbers.
1975-1976-1977 model years (H, J, K-Series) can be grouped together and represent the darker years for Porsche in the US with a few exceptions. The ever demanding emission rules by the US and by then California’s unique requirements took its toll on the drivability, survivability and performance of the K-Jetronic injected engine. Power output of the 2.7-liter engine dropped to 157 HP for all states and 152 HP for Porsches delivered in California. Piled onto the engines were an air pump to dilute exhaust gas emissions and thermal reactors (read early catalytic converters) to burn excess oxygen in the exhaust. What really happened was that the reactors cooked the sealant in the block seam and block/cylinder/head joints. You can imagine the rest.
A Model 912E was introduced in 1976 for a single year to bridge the gap prior to the introduction of the Model 924 in 1977 and provide a means to use up left over 914-2.0 engines. A Carrera trim 911 with the 157/152 HP engines was available in small numbers (395) in the US in 1975 as well.
A bright note for this period was the introduction of the Model 911 Turbo Carrera in 1975 in Europe and in 1976 in the US. This car was powered by a 3.0-liter engine equipped with an exhaust driven turbocharger that produced 260 HP! This Porsche had a top speed in excess of 155 mph and would provide a rush for the occupants in achieving 60 mph in less than 5.5 seconds.
The 1978 Porsche 911SC (L-Series) marked the emergence from the dark years of the mid-seventies. Engine displacement was increased to 3.0 liters producing 180 HP, while the Model 930 Turbo produced 265 HP in the US and 300 HP for the rest of the world (RoW). The SC’s were/are great looking Porsches with flared rear fenders of the European and US Carreras, optional air dams and rear spoilers, comfortable interiors with air conditioning, leather and with great drivability and handling characteristics. The 930 Turbo was billed as the fastest production automobile on the planet with a top speed of 260 km /h (156 mph).
1979 and 1980 saw no changes for the 911SC except for the awful speedometers that were specified to meet US rules and showed 80 mph as the largest number on the dial. US imports of the 930 Turbo stopped at the end of the 1979 model year as the three-way catalytic converters and the turbo waste gate integration needed more development.
The 1981 through 1983 model years saw a power increase of the 3.0 liter 911SC engine to 204 HP and a rust perforation warranty of seven years on the body, which was a first in the industry. Other improvements included the departure from the troublesome rubber-centered clutch disc, plusher interior appointments and the return of a Cabriolet model in 1983 after an eighteen-year hiatus. The 1983 911SC has the reputation of being one of the most bullet proof Porsches ever built.
The 1984 Carrera (E Program) was the leadoff model year for the series of Model 911 Carreras produced through the 1989 model run. These cars are very similar in their basic specifications with 3.2-liter engines, Digital Motor Electronics (DME), solid driving and handling characteristics and great creature comforts. They are often referred to as the last of the “Real 911’s”. The engine produced 207 HP in the 1984 car and was increased to 217 HP in 1987. Six and eight inch wide or seven and eight inch wide wheels were fitted depending upon model year and driver preference. A change to a hydraulic actuated clutch was made in 1987 together with the introduction of the G 50 manual transmission. The 911 Turbo was reintroduced to the US market in 1986 available as a Coupe, Targa or Cabriolet model. Turbo power was rated at 282 HP.
In January of 1989, production began in a new body factory of the new Model 964, AWD Carrera 4 (K Program). This car was 70 per cent new, utilized the AWD technology of the Model 959 and Paris/Dakar Rally cars and was powered by a 3.6-liter, twin spark plug engine producing 250 HP. The remaining 911 bodies left in the old body factory were used to produce the 1989 Speedsters, which are coveted today in some circles.
The 1990 through 1994 Carrera 2’s and 4’s shared most components except the AWD machinery and computerized controls. These cars, including the engines were truly, one-world automobiles, as the requirements of the rest of the world, the European Common Market emergence, and the US rules reaching a plateau had given most manufacturers a clear set of requirements to strive for in their designs. A one-world Turbo coupe was offered in 1991, still using the3.3-liter engine rated now at 320 HP. The Turbo’s engine was enlarged to 3.6 liters in 1993. Another “common” was that all Porsche engines were designed to operate on unleaded fuels, which reduced combustion deposits and extended spark plug life. The 4-speed Tiptronic automatic transmission was introduced as an option on the 1990 Carrera 2. The Carrera 2 and 4 coupes and Targas ceased production in July 1993. The Cabriolet and a few Speedsters continued until January 1994, as did the Turbo 3.6.
The Porsche Model 993, advertised as “The New 911” in its early days, began first deliveries in the US in the Spring of 1994 as a 1995 model. The car was an overnight success with waiting lists forming at many dealers. It was sensuous and sexy when compared to the smooth but drab Carrera 2/4 predecessors. Interestingly, the 993 used the same 3.6-liter engine rated at 270 HP for 1995 and then revised to 282 HP for 1996 and beyond by the variable length intake runner system. A G 50 six-speed, manual transmission or the Tiptronic automatic transmission was available. The systems on the 993 are modern with power steering (first on a 911), climate control air conditioning/heating, power ABS brakes and traction control with ABD. These cars are now known as the “last of the air-cooled” Porsches. A twin-turbocharged 993 Model was introduced in 1996, reclaiming the title, “fastest production car on the planet.”
The latest step along the evolutionary path is the Porsche Model 996. As the car evolved, the latest step seems to be the greatest departure from the past. The 996 arrived in May of 1998 and left all air-cooled fanatics in the used car-shopping mode. The 3.4-liter engine is water-cooled, semi-dry sump lubricated, and the car is larger in length and width. The water-cooling allows room to incorporate a four-valve per cylinder head design and aids in overall engine noise reduction as well. Gone are the five individual gauges on the dashboard, the mechanical whine of the chains and cooling fan, the shoulder-to-shoulder intimacy of driver and passenger. It is difficult to detect the lineage with the past from inside the 996, but when you stand alongside, you can feel the visual and emotional connection to its heritage.
References:
Aichele, Tobias, Porsche 911 Forever Young, 1995
Haab, Mark S., The 1974-1989 911 Porsche, Authenticity Series, 1995
Ludvigsen, Karl, Porsche Excellence Was Expected, 1977
Driver's Education Preparation
Member
interest in Driver's Education emerged during the past year as our Region put on
two excellent D. E. events at Firebird East. If you are planning on attending
an Arizona Region Driver's Education session during the upcoming season, now is
a good time to get some basic maintenence items taken care of that will maximize
and influence the enjoyment of your track time. The following items should be
considered by an owner when preparing his/her Porsche for a day at the track:
Replace the following items noting the caveats:
-FAN AND AIR CONDITIONING BELTS: These belts should be replaced every three
years (four years maximum for low mileage cars). My 1995 993, built in August
1994, still has its original belts, so they are really living on borrowed time
and spares are standing by in the trunk.
-FUEL FILTER: Replace annually. A marginal filter may not provide adequate fuel
flow for long duration, full-throttle operation on the track. Prior to the
filter change, it is a good idea to run a bottle of Techron through the tank to
clean up deposits left by gasolines with the MTBE additive. Techron Fuel System
Cleaner by Chevron is a Porsche approved product which cleans up intake runner
and valve areas of the engine.
-OIL AND FILTER/S: 15W-50 Synthetics or 20W-50 Fossils are good choices for hot
lap running at Firebird. Normal operating temperature should be reached prior
to full-throttle operations. Porsche 914 and 944 owners should consider running
with an extra half quart in the sump to assure oil pump inlet coverage in
corners.
-TRANSMISSION FLUID: Replace annually with owner's manual recommended
viscosity/grade oil.
-ANTIFREEZE/COOLANT: Replace every two years. A 50/50 mix of a good
phosphate-free antifreeze and distilled water will provide maximum cooling for
your water cooled Porsche.
-SPARK PLUGS: Refer to your owner's manual for the spark plug replacement
interval for your Porsche model. Low mileage cars should have new plugs every
three years. Boxster and 996 owners may increase this time interval even
longer.
-BRAKE FLUID: Replace every two years with at least a DOT 4 specification fluid.
Bleed all caliper ports prior to Driver's Ed day, and again within the week
after a D. E. to minimize air bubbles and moisture absorption.
Check the following items noting the caveats:
The term "Check" means a visual inspection of an item, verification of the
working condition of an item, and where applicable, checking torque values of
bolts/nuts.
-AIR FILTER: Check for cleanliness. If you're running a K&N filter, you can
clean and re-oil it for maximum air flow.
-BALL JOINTS/TIE ROD ENDS: Check for looseness in joints and cracks in rubber
cups.
-BATTERY: Check battery clamp bolt/s for tightness and integrity of clamping..
Do not overfill cells as high cornering/braking forces can cause spillage.. A
"Battery-Mat" placed under the battery is good insurance against damage from
spilled electrolyte.
-BRAKE HOSES/CALIPERS: Check for cracks in hoses and leaks in calipers and
hoses.
-BRAKE PADS: Check pad depth. Minimum thickness for Driver's Ed start is 0.125
inch. Minimum service thickness for brake pads is 2mm (0.08 inch). Do not run
with new pads as new pads will require approximately 300 miles of break-in
before maximum braking performance can be developed.
-CV JOINTS: Check for clicking sound with car moving slowly and visually check
for cracks in rubber boots.
-DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR: Check cap for cracks and carbon tracking on the
inside. Check for metal pitting on rotor and point set, if applicable.
-LIGHTS: As a minimum, stop lights, head light flasher and emergency flashers
should be operational for Driver's Ed day. Of course, all lights must be
operational for daily driving safety.
-OIL HOSES, LINES AND RETURN TUBES: Check all oil system components for cracks
and leaks. Move rubber hoses around to see if cracks are starting.
-RADIATOR HOSES: Check for flexibility and cracking. Check clamps for leaks and
tightness. It's good insurance to replace hoses every three years, just like
belts. They are expendable and are generally time limited instead of mileage or
usage limited.
-SEAT MOUNTINGS: Check for looseness of seats in seat tracks and seat track to
floor pan joints.
-STRUTS/SHOCKS/SWAY BARS: Check tightness of all mounting hardware and check for
leaks/wetness.
-TIRES: Check for minimum tread depth and cracks in sidewalls, inside and
outside. Do not run with new tires as new tires will require 300 to 500 miles
of running before maximum road holding forces can be developed. Tire pressures
used at the track can vary as much as owners' choices in toothbrushes (it is a
highly personal preference). There are many right answers depending on which
grouping of the multitude of variables considered. A good starting point for
street tires, however, is a "cold" reading 2 to 4 psi over the recommendation in
the owner's manual or on the door post decal.
-WHEEL BEARINGS: Check for looseness by pushing/pulling on the front wheels near
the top of each tire.
-WHEEL LUG NUTS/BOLTS: Check owner's manual for proper torque values and secure
the wheel nuts/bolts with a certified torque wrench.
-WINDSHIELD WIPERS: These usually are not required for a Driver's Ed outing in
Arizona, but it is a good time to check for dry or cracked blade rubber, and
check the system action for full motion across the windshield.
Other needs include an approved helmet, and a permanently mounted fire
extinguisher. A halon extinguisher is expensive, but preferred because it
leaves no residue on very expensive Porsche aluminum engine pieces and
accessories. Approved rollbars are required in Cabriolets and Boxsters. Your
stock seats and three-way seat belts are fine for Driver's Ed. As skills grow,
some owners will consider a special seat and harness setup to stay better
connected with their cars. There are many combinations available in several
price ranges. For PCA recommended specifications for these items, check the PCA
website under Club Racing.
Completion of the above "replace" and "check" items will assure the owner that
his/her Porsche is trackworthy and prepared to provide a capable ride for a very
enjoyable Driver's Education day.
Tires and Wheels for your Porsche
I have
wanted to address this subject for the last two months, but kept opting out
because tires and wheels are such a highly personal, often emotional, and,
sometimes very controversial topic among Porsche owners as well as among owners
of other marques. Special tire and wheel combinations along with after-market
exhaust system setups have become the primary bolt-on products used by owners of
later models to personalize their cars, make them unique, and sometimes improve
performance in this era of Federal and State operational mandates. Some serious
Porsche drivers have a dedicated tire/wheel set for the street, another for
autocrossing, maybe a set for Driver's Education/PCA Club Racing, and, perhaps
even another set for concours. I do not have the knowledge, insight or space
allocation to address all these specialty applications, nevertheless, there is a
lot of basic and generic information available these days, especially on tires,
to aid the Porsche owner in selecting tire/wheel combinations that not only look
great but will also match up with the overall performance of the total
automobile. The serious autocrosser who has already sprung for a set of Kumho
tires on a set of Fikse wheels will probably not find much new news in this
article, but those of you who are looking for replacement or upgrade of your
rolling stock, read on.
First, when shopping for a set of tires, remember that the four, approximately 6
inch by 6 inch, squares of rubber on the bottom of your tires is the only part
of your Porsche that is in intimate contact with the road surface on which you
are traveling. All the feedback to your suspension system, your steering,
braking, and acceleration components, as well as the feedback to your behind on
the seat cushion comes from those small patches of rubber on the road. So,
please select the best quality and performance match you can afford for your
intended usage, and in any case, never install a tire of lower quality and
performance than the original equipment tire that was delivered on your car.
There is a lot of information imbedded on the sidewall of a tire. Let's review
what the code numbers/letters found on an example tire in my garage mean:
"255/40 ZR 17 94Y; DOT FDUY-M12237; Maximum Load 670 kg (1477 lbs) @ 44 psi
Maximum Pressure; Treadwear 160; Traction A; Temperature A".
This translates as follows: 255 millimeter tire section width/the sidewall
height is 40% (102mm) of the tire section width, the speed rating is Z (149 mph
and over), R is for radial construction, 17 is the rim diameter in inches, 94 is
the load index which translates to a maximum load of 670 kg or 1477 pounds per
tire at the maximum rated tire pressure of 44 psi, which is also spelled out on
this tire; the last three digits of the DOT codes (237) indicate the date of
manufacture as the 23rd week of 1997; 160 treadwear code is a comparative number
which means that this tire should wear 60% longer than a comparable tire rated
at 100, or twice as long as a comparable tire rated at 80 (Federal bureaucracy
at work here); traction code A simply means that this tire may have better
straight line traction performance than a tire rated B or C (lowest) based on
straight ahead braking tests (turning and cornering performance is not factored
in); temperature code A means this tire will dissipate heat better and run
cooler than a tire rated B or C (lowest) when properly inflated and not
overloaded. All this data added together translates toward the old adage that
you will get what you pay for. Expect to pay near $200.00 and up, each, for
tires meeting these specifications.
Your owners manual has an important notice regarding tire aging and usage. It
states, "Under no circumstances should tires older than six (6) years be used on
your Porsche". These higher performance, softer compounded tires will age
harden over time (particularly here on the face of the sun in Phoenix) and lose
their properties, sort of like an "old" racing tire that hardens after numerous
heat cycles. The owners manual also points out that the wear bars between the
tread row blocks will appear as solid bars when the minimum service tread depth
of 3/32 inch is reached. When the bars on any two adjacent tread rows appear on
a tire as a solid bar it is time to replace the tires on both sides at that axle
location. Tires should always be replaced in pairs, and, fronts and rears
should be from the same manufacturer and of compatible quality to minimize
unwanted handling traits. I cannot stress too highly how important proper tire
inflation is for the safety, performance, and durability of your tires, Porsche
and personal body parts. The recommended "cold" inflation pressure for your
tires is stated in your owners manual and on a decal on the driver's door jamb,
as well.
Tire wear patterns will tell you what is going on if you read and inspect them
carefully every 2000 miles or whenever you have the wheels off the car for a
thorough cleaning and waxing. Higher wear rates on the inside treads will occur
if you run more negative camber than specified front and back (this is common on
cars set up for autocrossing and/or the track) or if the front suspension has
developed a toe-out condition. Higher wear rates on the center treads,
particularly the rear, is an indicator that the tire is running underinflated.
This sounds backwards, but the lower aspect ratio, wide tires on later Porsches
need to be fully inflated to keep the sidewalls stiff enough to maintain flat
tread bottoms under loading and high revolutions. Higher wear rates on the
outside treads of the front and/or rear tires is an indicator that the toe-in is
too high. The rear suspension of the early 993s was setup at the factory with
the toe-in towards the maximum to provide more oversteer margin which resulted
in accelerated rear tire wear. My car went through three sets of rear tires in
15,000 miles, but, since the rear toe-in was reset towards the minimum, the
current set of rear tires has 14,000 miles with about one third of the tread
remaining. A cupping wear pattern on a tire is an indicator of an out of
balance or out of round condition of the tire/wheel combination. This needs to
be addressed quickly as tires, suspension components, and drivers will not
tolerate this condition very long without rapid wear out.
Tire technology moves and improves at the same alarming rate as personal
computers, DVDs, televisions, wireless telephones and other high tech products
of our time. It would sound and be foolish to make any "this is the best tire"
recommendations in this fast developing marketplace. I would say to stick with
the products of the manufacturers who have been approved as original equipment
suppliers (OEM) to Porsche. Weissach engineers do an enormous amount of tire
testing under all conditions for each Porsche model before selecting the tire
providers for the assembly line in Stuttgart. This, however, should not exclude
tire products of non-OEMs that have appeared on the scene after Porsche
completed acceptance testing for the factory run because such tires may out
perform the earlier qualified OEM products. Special use tires for racing,
autocross and winter driving often are produced by non-OEMs, as well.
Wheels are the most popular way to personalize your Porsche today, and, the
product choices available to carry out this transformation are simply mind
boggling. It would be difficult to decide on a "look" from all the candidates
available. When shopping for a set of new wheels, here are a few items/issues
an owner should consider. First, replica wheels of the Fuchs forged wheel, Cup
wheels and other factory patterns may not perform well on your Porsche. This is
an area where looks vs. performance vs. cost is not a good trade off. Next, try
before you buy. Our cars, even of the same model, may require wheels with a
particular/special offset (distance from inside hub surface to bead ledge) for
brake caliper or suspension component clearance, or a special spoke shape for
the same reasons. Finally, the tire/wheel combination should be checked out as
mounted on your car for rubbing on the body, fender lip, and/or suspension parts
under the full range of suspension loading, if possible.
Not so many years ago, BBS was the primary manufacturer of after market wheels
that were acceptable for usage on our Porsches. BBS still offers a wide range
of world class, high performance wheels, but they have been joined in the after
market world of wheels by a large, ever growing number of very high quality
producers of wheels for street, for go, or, for show. I would not try to list
every company name here for fear I would miss your favorite wheel maker. I only
mentioned BBS because they were very early in this surge. Wheels are like art,
and the picture created by your wheel choice on your Porsche will be a rolling
statement of your personality.